45 years old, I'm reinventing my beauty routine
Around 45, skin shows deeper changes: more pronounced wrinkles, loss of firmness, and pigmentation irregularities. The goal is not to fight against time, but to strengthen and revitalize the skin so that it remains radiant.
This guide details the six changes to be aware of, the active ingredients that truly address them, and the routine to build—morning and evening—for mature skin.
Turning 45: What You Need to Know for Your Skin
From the age of 45, the skin undergoes more marked changes, which are essential to understand in order to adjust your routine. Here are the main elements to take into account:
-
Slower cell regeneration:
Cell renewal slows down further, which can lead to a dull complexion and uneven texture. Gentle and regular exfoliation, with acids such as glycolic acid, removes dead cells and stimulates renewal. -
Significant decrease in collagen and elastin:
Their production drops considerably, leading to skin sagging and deeper wrinkles. Skincare products containing peptides, retinoids, or plant stem cells help reactivate collagen synthesis. -
Increased dryness:
Sebum production decreases, making the skin drier and more prone to irritation. Creams rich in ceramides, fatty acids, and hyaluronic acid maintain hydration and strengthen the skin barrier. -
Wrinkles and loss of firmness:
Wrinkles around the eyes, mouth, and on the forehead become more pronounced. This is the time to incorporate retinol — or bakuchiol for a gentler alternative — and biomimetic peptides. -
Pigmentation irregularities:
Dark spots become more prominent after years of sun exposure. Daily sunscreen remains essential, supplemented by brightening active ingredients such as vitamin C or niacinamide. -
Hormonal and nutritional support:
The drop in estrogen related to menopause affects skin quality and texture. Active ingredients like soy isoflavones help maintain skin suppleness, and a diet rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids supports overall skin health.
Adopting a routine tailored to these needs preserves the skin's firmness, radiance, and hydration for years to come.
Key active ingredients
Plant stem cells
Plant stem cells are powerful anti-aging active ingredients in cosmetics, renowned for their ability to deeply protect and regenerate the skin. Derived from plants, they contain compounds capable of promoting skin cell regeneration and repairing damaged tissues. In addition to stimulating collagen and elastin production to firm the skin, they help strengthen its protective barrier against external aggressions.
Thanks to their antioxidant properties, they also help prevent premature aging signs caused by free radicals, particularly those due to UV exposure and pollution. They improve skin firmness and elasticity, while promoting a more even and radiant complexion.
Biomimetic Peptides
Biomimetic peptides are cutting-edge molecules in skincare, known for their ability to mimic the skin's natural processes. By binding to specific receptors, they stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, which helps to firm the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. For example, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, dubbed "botox peptide," helps reduce expression lines by relaxing facial muscles, making it particularly effective at smoothing fine lines around the eyes and mouth.
In addition to their regenerative properties, biomimetic peptides improve skin elasticity and strengthen its protective barrier. They are particularly effective at mitigating loss of firmness and deep wrinkles, while being well-tolerated by sensitive skin.
Glycolic and Lactic Acids
Glycolic and lactic acids are leading ingredients in skincare, particularly effective for exfoliation and cell renewal. These two AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) work gently but effectively to remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface, improve texture, and stimulate skin regeneration.
- Glycolic acid is a powerful exfoliant that penetrates deeply due to its small molecular size. It smooths wrinkles, evens skin tone, and refines skin texture, while stimulating collagen production. It is particularly effective on hyperpigmentation and dull skin.
- Lactic acid, being milder, is ideal for sensitive skin. It exfoliates superficially while providing moisturizing properties, and is particularly suitable for mature or dehydrated skin seeking exfoliation without irritation.
At home, these acids should be used in the evening, never on the same day as retinol, and always with sun protection the following morning.
Retinol
Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is a powerful ingredient used to treat the signs of aging. It works by stimulating cell renewal and increasing collagen production, which helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles, smooth skin texture, and lighten dark spots.
- Classic Retinol: Renowned for its effectiveness, it accelerates the regeneration of skin cells, making skin smoother and more even. Its use requires a gradual adaptation phase, especially for sensitive skin.
- Encapsulated Retinol: This version allows for gradual release into the skin, minimizing the risk of irritation while offering the same benefits. Ideal for beginners.
Retinol should be applied in the evening, on dry skin, starting with two applications per week.
Build the routine
In the morning, we protect: an antioxidant, then a sunscreen—this is what preserves the collagen that is still in place. In the evening, we alternate: retinol some evenings, glycolic and lactic acids on others, never both together. In between, a cream rich in ceramides and hyaluronic acid to compensate for decreased sebum.
Biomimetic peptides and plant stem cells are incorporated into the evening serum, where they support firmness. And once or twice a week, a nourishing mask plumps the skin. At 45, regularity and gradual progress count more than the concentration of the formulas.
The selection related to this guide
Four houses, four distinct roles in the routine.
Exfoliate — gently, to boost slowed cell turnover.
Yon-Ka scrubCHF 45.00
Regenerate — evening retinol, to be introduced twice a week.
Ageless Total Overnight Retinol MaskCHF 108.00
Firming — a rich cream to compensate for decreased sebum production.
Sublime Skin - CreamCHF 150.00
Protect – Daily SPF 50: what preserves the collagen already present.
Dynamic Skin Recovery - SPF 50CHF 99.00